Choosing the right interfacing for your project can feel confusing and a little intimidating. We’ve gathered clear, practical information to help you confidently select the best interfacing for your sewing project.
Why do I need interfacing?
Interfacing adds structure and stability to your fabric. You can use it to create structure in cuffs, collars, waistbands, etc. It is great to provide stability where you want to have buttons & buttonholes, or zips. You can even use interfacing to add warmth to a garment like a coat.
Terminology notes:
- Interfacing is sometimes confused with interlining, but they are not the same. Interlining is an additional layer of fabric placed between the outer (fashion) fabric and the lining, often to add warmth, body, weight or lustre.
- Iron on interfacing is fused to the fabric using heat from an iron, which is why it’s sometimes referred to simply as “fusing.”
What is fusible/non fusible, sew in/iron on?
- Non-fusible, means you will need to sew-in/baste it to your fabric pieces.
- Fusible interfacing irons on. One side is covered in tiny “glue” dots and you use an iron to heat the glue and fuse your interfacing to the fabric.
One is not necessarily better than the other — it ultimately comes down to personal preference and the needs of your project. Fusible interfacings are a more recent development and are widely used for their convenience. However, because they are bonded to the fabric with heat, they can sometimes alter the fabric’s appearance or handle. In these cases, you may prefer to use a sew-in interfacing instead.
Types:
- Non-woven interfacings – don’t have a grain line. These are a cheaper option.
- Woven interfacings – do have a grain line.
- Knit / stretch interfacings – needed when you are sewing with knit fabrics to maintain the fabrics stretch.
- You can even get your hands on wash away and tear away interfacings.
Weight:
Interfacings come in a range of weights. In most cases, you’ll want to choose an interfacing that matches the weight of your fabric. However, it’s equally important to consider the role the interfacing will play.
For example, a waistband on a denim skirt will likely require a medium to heavy-weight interfacing for structure and support. In contrast, a Peter Pan collar on a delicate voile blouse would call for a lightweight interfacing to maintain softness and drape.
Weights in a nutshell:
- Medium to heavyweight – if it is loosely woven, it will suit tailoring in heavy weight jackets and coats.
- Heavyweight Firm – if it holds it form like a cereal cardboard box, you should keep it for crafting projects. Or perhaps you are looking to create a super structured garment that will maintain your personal space for you.
- Light to medium weight – suitable for collars, cuffs, jackets.
- Light weight – suitable for dressmaking blouses, dresses.
Pre-Test:
Always test your interfacing on a small scrap of your fabric before applying it to your garment. Some fabrics do not respond well to fusible interfacing, in which case you may need to use a sew-in (non-fusible) option instead.
Testing will also help you determine the correct heat setting and pressing time required for fusing. Most importantly, it allows you to check that you’re happy with how the interfacing looks and behaves on your fabric before committing to it.
Technique:
- The heat required to fuse interfacing can vary. If your interfacing didn’t come with instructions, begin at a lower heat setting and gradually increase it until you achieve a secure bond. Once you’ve established the correct temperature, set your iron to no or low steam.
- A small amount of steam can sometimes help activate the adhesive, but use it sparingly, you are introducing moisture to glue, which can weaken the bond if overused.
- Always use a pressing cloth to protect both your fabric and your iron.
- Place the glue side of the interfacing against the wrong side of your fabric. Press from the interfacing side using a firm up-and-down motion. Hold the iron in place for 5–10 seconds in each area, overlapping slightly to ensure full coverage. Avoid sliding or wiggling the iron, as this can cause wrinkles or distortion.
- To minimise “heat shock” (which can cause puckering), lightly pre-press the fabric before fusing.
- Heavier fabrics and interfacings may require higher heat, a damp pressing cloth, and a longer pressing time (up to 30 seconds). You may also need to press from the right side of the fabric to secure a strong bond.
- If your pattern instructs you to “block fuse,” this means fusing the interfacing to the entire piece of fabric before tracing and cutting out your pattern pieces.
- Let your test sample guide you, it will show you the combination of heat, steam, and pressing time that gives the best result.
- In a pinch: you could baste another piece of the fashion fabric to pieces requiring interfacing. The success of this will totally depend on the amount of structure you want/need.
Brands:
Some pattern envelopes will list interfacing by brand name, if your favourite store doesn’t carry the brand, ask the to help you find an interfacing that will work for your project. Here are some brand names of interfacings you may come across:
- Sheerweft – fine knit and ultra smooth. Ideal for semi-sheer fabrics, whites and light colours because it has a fine texture which will not shadow through.
- Textureweft – fine textured knit with crinkly fusing surface. Ideal for interfacing loosely woven fabrics as it adds soft body. The crosswise stretch makes it suitable for texturised knits with moderate stretch.
- Whisperweft – medium weight with rayon. Idea for light to medium loosely woven fabric that require more support. It is best suited to fabrics with high natural fibre content that are hand washed or dry-cleaned.
- Armoweft – Heavier weight with dense rayon yarn. Idea for use under collars, cuffs and jacket fronts. Ideal for heavier fabrics like wool flannel, tweeds and coatings. Best used on garments to be washed or dry-cleaned.
*Additional research for this article has come from the McCall Australia’s Interfacing Fact Sheet.