Pattern grading should not be confused with pattern alterations. Alterations are the process of making a pattern fit the nuances of an individual body. Whereas, grading is the process of creating a range of new sizes, or a size run.

Grading may simply be defined as the increasing or decreasing of a pattern according to a set of corresponding body measurements.  The secret to professional grading is to understand where the body requires these changes.[1]

Patterns can be graded using: the cut and spread method, pattern shifting or with computer grading.

We teach the basics of Grading in a 3 hour workshop at Thread Den – click here to read more.

Helpful Tools for Grading:

Pattern Drafting Tools

1. Awl
2. Curve rules
3. Dressmaker’s square ruler
4. Grading ruler
5. Measuring tape
6. Pattern notcher
7. Spiked tracing wheel

Pattern Drafting Stationery

1. Mechanical pencils (eraser & sharpener)
2. Highlighters in 4 colours
3. A four coloured pen
4. Markers (black, blue, red, green)
5. Clear tape (3M Scotch magic tape)
6. Paper scissors
7. Pattern drafting paper

Sewing Kit

1. Pins (sewing & push pins)
2. Tailor’s chalk
3. Dressmaking shears
4. Calico – at least 3metres for toile
5. Thread and notions (zip? buttons?)

[1]Jack Handford. Professional Pattern Grading. 2003. Bloomsbury Publishing.