Thread Den

Learn to Sew Melbourne

Danielle

What does fat quarter mean?

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Thread Den suggests a fat quarter as the fabric requirement for the week 1 workshop in our Sewing Basics for Beginners Course. So, what is that and what does that mean?

A fat quarter is a pre-cut piece of fabric especially popular with quilters. It is an economical way to purchase small fabric requirements that have become standardised. Most fabric stores that cater to quilters will have a wide range of fat quarters available either in bundles of complementary colours and designs or sold individually.

A fat quarter is usually:

  • 50cm x 50cm square (approximately)
  • 100% cotton plain weave fabric
  • Cut on the straight grain and including the selvedge on one side of the square

A fat quarter is cut by; first cutting half a metre of quilting fabric off the bolt (producing a rectangle), then cutting that directly in half (achieving a square).

The size of the square produced is not exact because:

  • In the USA the first cut is half a yard (45cm) not half a metre (50cm)
  • The width of a bolt of fabric varies
How to cut a fat quarter of quilting fabric diagram

Image from The Fabric Fox UK.

Why pre-wash your fabric?

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For best results, wash and press your fabric before class. You should launder your fabric exactly how you plan to wash and care for your finished garment.

Fabric should be pre-washed to pre-shrink, to remove the chemicals from the manufacturing process and wash out any dirt. Have you noticed how much softer your fabrics can feel after washing? That is due to sizing. Applying a sizing agent (a bit like starch) improves the strength and helps the fabric resist the mechanical stress applied through the manufacturing process.

Most fabrics from natural fibres shrink when you wash them. Cotton fabrics often shrink around 5%, however, shrinkage up to 10% is not uncommon.

Papercut Patterns Courses

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These courses feature sewing patterns by Papercut, based in Nelson, New Zealand.

With a focus on freedom of expression and positive body image, Papercut Patterns are dedicated to creating fashion with a consistent premium quality and a unique signature style.

We believe in eco-friendly fashion revolution and the sustainability of sewing your own wardrobe without compromising on style. 

papercutpatterns.com

Elbe Textiles Patterns Courses

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These courses feature sewing patterns by Elbe Textiles, based in Perth, Australia.

By encouraging more people to make their own clothing, I am hoping this can help shift the focus of an industry dominated by fast fashion, and lead consumers to a more thoughtful, curated and ethical wardrobe. After experiencing the time, effort and reward that goes into the creation of a garment, it’s hard to go back to a mass produced, chain store item.

Lauren

elbetextiles.com.au

Filming with Retro TV

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Retro TV dropped in to film a segment at Thread Den. Miss Lee gave Courtenay the fabulous fifties hair she had always dreamed of. Subscribe to the Retro TV YouTube channel to watch the episode the moment it drops and learn how to do a brick set and create stunning 1950s hair waves.

If you ever want your own hair lesson with Miss Lee contact us! We can even organise a fab’ party with all your friends. It will be just like the sleep-over scene in Grease. “Look at me, I’m Sandra Dee…”

The Ulysses Trench Coat

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Elevate your dressmaking skills!

Our newest course is the Ulysses Trench Coat by Victory Patterns.

This pattern from Victory Patterns goes up to a 113cm bust, therefore we are going to be grading custom patterns for participants needing more inclusive sizing. Bookings for a bust over 115cm will close two weeks prior to the start to allow grading patterns. 

The list of dressmaking skills covered in this course is extensive: Taking measurements, choosing the right size and shortening or lengthening if needed, pattern placement and transferring markings, and cutting technique. Applying bias binding on unlined seams, some French seams, stitching a lining to the rain guard overlay, notched out holes for the belt and patch pockets with flaps. How to handle some pattern pieces that have been cut on the bias. Creating a professional centre back vent, using a buckle or creating a buckle with D-rings, optional – making self-bias binding. Phew! What a list! 

In this comprehensive new course, we are going to take you through the whole process from beginning-to-end of using a tissue paper pattern. The course cost includes a pattern and instruction booklet. Participants should expect to do some homework during the course to ensure you stay on track and finish the trench coat during the course time frame.

See the course description and view more photos – click here.

Road Trip Idea – Visit Ararat’s Textile Art Museum

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A 2 hour & 45 minute drive from Melbourne (or catch the train out via Ballarat!) you’ll find Ararat, a town that is part of Victoria’s Central Highlands. The Ararat TAMA (Textile Art Museum Australia) has been operating since 1968.

The dynamic growth in textile practice from the 1970s into the 1990s is reflected in a wide range of acquisitions including quilts, tapestries, baskets and embroideries, as well as experimental mixed media works that reflect the enthusiasm and optimism amongst textile artists during this period. 

Ararat TAMA – araratgallerytama.com.au

Current exhibitions include;

The Lady Barbara Grimwade Collection

Barbara’s interest and appreciation for well-tailored clothing and fashion began during her school days and her early adulthood. As a young woman Barbara favoured Marlowe of Sydney, a designer who had studied in France and was highly proficient in haute couture. Following a move to Melbourne, Barbara was a dedicated patron of Arija Austin, the owner and designer of Tu in South Yarra. Following her death in March 1990, Barbara’s son Mr Angus K Grimwade generously donated over 400 items from her wardrobe to Ararat Gallery, including clothing, hats, handbags, shoes and assorted accessories of gloves, belts and scarves.

Runs Until Sunday 19th March 2023

FREE

A tribute exhibition to local artist Carole Mules

Carole Mules (nee Anderson) was born in 1946, after studying art and teaching at the School of Mines in Ballarat, Carole moved to Melbourne to raise a family where she developed her interest in photography, textiles and ceramics. Carole created a rich pallet of textures and colours using combinations of contact printing with native plants and found objects, freehand machine stitching, hand stitching, cut and collage, floral resist, and tying and folding fabric. Carole passed away in September 2021.

Runs until Sunday 19th March 2023

FREE

Notions of Care

Notions of Care explores the ways in which art and nurture are interlinked. Through the works of Arini Byng, Snapcat, Polly Stanton, Kate Tucker and Katie West, ways of caring are unfolded, cultivated, and enforced. The exhibition asks questions about the ways that art can care for both viewers and artists. Throughout the exhibition, care is explored through a variety of means. From soft sculptural forms, bodily interrelations, field recordings and the scent of local flora, the exhibition welcomes a personal and intimate reverence of calm.

Runs until Sunday 26th February 2023

FREE

Christmas gifts for sewing lovers

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Are you looking for the perfect gift idea for someone who loves to sew? A beautifully crafted pair of dressmaking shears or thread snips is a quality gift that will last a lifetime.

For an extra special touch, consider having your loved one’s name engraved on the blade.

Click here to see our gift ideas.

Sohmo Dressmaking Shears

Bobbin Tips

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Super quick and in some pics, here are our top bobbin threading tips:

bobbin tip 1

Avoid layering up threads on your bobbins. When you get to the end of the outer thread (white in our picture), a knot can easily be created as the needle thread tries to pick up the end of the white thread and the beginning of the yellow thread all at once.

Bobbin tip 2

Don’t leave a long thread tail after loading up your bobbin. Each time the machine rotates the needle thread around the bobbin, it will try to pick up both the working end and the tail end of the thread. Instead, snip off the tail thread close to the bobbin.

Bobbin tip 3

The thread in our picture isn’t neat, the threads crisis cross each other which will encourage skipped stitches. Double-check your manual to ensure you are threading up correctly to perfectly fill a bobbin with thread.

bobbin tip 4

If your thread feels squishy on the bobbin or you can easily separate threads like in our picture, you will likely be missing a tension guide when threading your bobbin.

bobbin tip 5

If you are following all the guides on your machine and pulling the thread into the bobbin thread tension guide you should have a good-looking bobbin, ready for a great session of sewing!

Tips for cutting out fabric when sewing

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These are the top tips for cutting out your fabric that we share when you join a sewing workshop at Thread Den. Doing a great job of cutting out all your pattern pieces before you even start sewing will help the rest of your project go smoothly.

  • Keep the shears and fabric as close to the tabletop as possible. Keep your fabric flat, do not lift it up or off the table to access it. You can scootch your shears along the tabletop (keeping the lower blade touching the tabletop).
  • Keep your shears straight.
  • Take long cuts.
  • Peel the fabric of the cutout pattern pieces out of your way as you cut.
  • Keep the pattern pieces on the left of your shears (if right-handed).
  • Use lovely sharp fabric shears.
  • When snipping in your notches, never cut them deeper than the seam allowance. 5mm or less is about right.