Thread Den

Learn to Sew Melbourne

Sewing Tips

Terminology – is grading, alterations?

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Pattern grading should not be confused with pattern alterations. Alterations are the process of making a pattern fit the nuances of an individual body. Whereas, grading is the process of creating a range of new sizes, or a size run.

Grading may simply be defined as the increasing or decreasing of a pattern according to a set of corresponding body measurements.  The secret to professional grading is to understand where the body requires these changes.[1]

Patterns can be graded using: the cut and spread method, pattern shifting or with computer grading.

We teach the basics of Grading in a 3 hour workshop at Thread Den – click here to read more.

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Terminology – Sloper or Block?

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Sewing terms change internationally, which is confusing, slopers and blocks are one of those terms:

In Australia when we refer to a pattern block, we are referring to the basic shapes that sewing patterns start from. There is a skirt block, bodice block, pants block, torso block and sleeve block.  The USA refers to these as slopers.

A block can be fit to a standard size or custom to fit you perfectly. You then use this as the basis to draft your own designs and variations.

Book into our pattern drafting program and you will not only custom fit your own block, but learn to draft your own design variations. Read more here. 

Stay safe when sewing on your beloved old machine!

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This post from Kristin Nichols reminded me of how many people in our sewing community are working on much beloved old machines. We have seen a few and heard of plenty of foot pedals that start smoking, and machines that smell and then start to smoke. So read this timely post – Getting Stitched on the Farm – and in a nut shell:

  1. Consider replacing old foot pedals with a nice new one.
  2. Unplug machines not in use.
  3. Unfortunately, (based on sparky’s advice) plugging a two prong plug into a three three prong extension cord will NOT ground the wire in the cord as suggested in this article.
Vintage Sewing Machine

Bobbin Dramas?

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Are you getting a bird’s nest of threads underneath your sewing work? Or perhaps experiencing skipped stitches? Is the thread really loopy and messy on the underside of the stitch? 

Here are some tips to troubleshoot problems that may occurring when threading the bobbin:

  • Firstly, have you got a nicely wound bobbin? If your thread looks messy or gives when you squeeze it on the bobbin, it is most likely that you haven’t wound it correctly. A well wound bobbin will have neat, even and firmly wrapped thread around it.
  • Is your bobbin inserted correctly? Double check with your manual to ensure your thread is flowing clockwise or anti-clockwise as per your machine’s requirement.
  • Is your bobbin thread pulled through it’s tension guide? You need to pull the bobbin thread through the notch/guide to ensure there is a small amount of tension on the thread.
  • Did you snip of the thread tail? If you have a thread tail of a centremetre or more from the other end (not the end you are threading) your needle thread is going to try to pick-up both ends of the thread each time it rotates around the bobbin.
  • Is the needle thread correctly threaded? One of the most common problems we see is that the thread is not on the silver up-take hook/guide.
  • Don’t forget to lower the presser foot.
  • You can also double check that you have not got your stitch length on zero.
  • Lastly, try holding onto both of your threads for the first couple of stitches.  

The top bobbin is no good
The top bobbin is too loosely wound. The bottom bobbin is perfect.
This bobbin window shows the direction the thread must flow.
Bobbin tension guides
See the small tail thread? Snip it off!
Has the thread fallen out of here?

The Difference Between Knits & Wovens

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Fabrics fall generally in two categories: Knits and Wovens.  In a nutshell your t shirts are made from knits and your button up shirts are made from wovens. 

Woven fabric is produced through weaving two sets of yarn. Examples include button up shirts, trousers, jeans, denim jackets.

Knit fabric is produced by interloping (or knitting) one set of yarn. Examples include leggings, t shirts, sweaters, underwear.

Does it matter?

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