Sewing Journal

One common question from our students is: “How do I get better at sewing straight?” It sounds simple, but it’s one of those foundational skills that makes a huge difference to the finish of your garment seams and hems.

Sewing straight isn’t about perfection, it’s about a few key habits and techniques that make everything feel more controlled and consistent. Here are our tips to help you stay straight on your seam allowance.

1. Let Your Seam Guides Do the Work

Your sewing machine already has built-in helpers, those lines etched into the needle plate are your seam guides. Instead of focusing on the needle, guide your fabric so the raw edge runs consistently along your chosen seam allowance line.

No visible guides? No problem. A simple strip of washi tape placed at your desired seam allowance works just as well and gives you a clear visual path to follow.

2. Set Yourself Up Properly

Your positioning matters more than you might think. Sit close enough to your machine so you’re not reaching or straining, and line yourself up so the needle is directly in front of you (directly in front of your nose!).

This alignment helps you look straight down at your seam guides, making it much easier to keep your stitching accurate.

3. Stop Watching the Needle

It’s tempting to stare at the needle, but that’s actually what throws you off. Instead, keep your eyes on the fabric as it moves along the seam guide.

A helpful trick is to focus slightly in front of the needle and a couple of centimetres closer to you. This wider view helps you anticipate movement and stay on track.

4. Guide, Don’t Control

If your fabric needs a bit more control, use both hands, one in front of the presser foot and one behind it to gently guide the fabric.

Keep your fingers soft – the key word here is gently. Don’t pull or hold the fabric back. Let the machine feed it through at its own pace while your hands simply steer. Think of it like guiding, not driving.

5. Check Your Presser Foot Pressure

For long, straight seams, make sure your presser foot pressure is set firmly. This helps the machine feed the fabric evenly and reduces the chance of slipping or uneven stitching (note that not all machines have adjustable presser foot pressure).

Mastering straight stitching takes a bit of practice, but once these habits click, you’ll notice a huge improvement in your confidence and your results. Slow it down and trust the process.

The edges of woven fabrics will fray unless they are finished or covered by a lining. Fraying is the ravelling of fabric edges that occurs. Some fabrics will fray more than others.

Some of the most common methods you can use to finish the edge of your fabrics to prevent this fraying include: trimming with pinking shears, overlocking, binding, constructing French seams and overcasting.

Have you seen the note on the fabric requirements: *with nap or *without nap? 

“Nap” means that the tiny fibres lie in one direction on the surface of a fabric.

When you are following sewing patterns, you may come across the instruction to stay-stitch an edge (often a curved neckline is stay-stitched), but what on earth does that mean? We are here to help!