Thread Den

Learn to Sew Melbourne

Sewing Journal

Terminology – is grading, alterations?

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Pattern grading should not be confused with pattern alterations. Alterations are the process of making a pattern fit the nuances of an individual body. Whereas, grading is the process of creating a range of new sizes, or a size run.

Grading may simply be defined as the increasing or decreasing of a pattern according to a set of corresponding body measurements.  The secret to professional grading is to understand where the body requires these changes.[1]

Patterns can be graded using: the cut and spread method, pattern shifting or with computer grading.

We teach the basics of Grading in a 3 hour workshop at Thread Den – click here to read more.

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Terminology – Sloper or Block?

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Sewing terms change internationally, which is confusing, slopers and blocks are one of those terms:

In Australia when we refer to a pattern block, we are referring to the basic shapes that sewing patterns start from. There is a skirt block, bodice block, pants block, torso block and sleeve block.  The USA refers to these as slopers.

A block can be fit to a standard size or custom to fit you perfectly. You then use this as the basis to draft your own designs and variations.

Book into our pattern drafting program and you will not only custom fit your own block, but learn to draft your own design variations. Read more here. 

Easter Sewing Event

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This Easter join us at Thread Den to add to your #MeMade wardrobe. Choose our popular skirt workshop: a classic circle skirt to be held over Friday and Saturday afternoon, or a one off workshop featuring the Indie pattern designer – Pauline Alice – making the Reina Blouse on Sunday and Monday.

If you live far away from Melbourne, this is a lovely chance to come to town, stay a night and sew up a storm with us. 

To make these special Easter workshops more fun, we have a goodie bags with surprises from our friends inside. Those that have put in goodies include; Maison Burlesque, Homelealass, Cinema Nova, Spruce Craft Co, Ethical Clothing Company, Megan Nielsen Patterns, Closet Case Patterns, Jimmy Buttons.

Stay safe when sewing on your beloved old machine!

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This post from Kristin Nichols reminded me of how many people in our sewing community are working on much beloved old machines. We have seen a few and heard of plenty of foot pedals that start smoking, and machines that smell and then start to smoke. So read this timely post – Getting Stitched on the Farm – and in a nut shell:

  1. Consider replacing old foot pedals with a nice new one.
  2. Unplug machines not in use.
  3. Unfortunately, (based on sparky’s advice) plugging a two prong plug into a three three prong extension cord will NOT ground the wire in the cord as suggested in this article.
Vintage Sewing Machine

Crochet Hook Size Conversions

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At a bare minimum to get yourself started on crochet you’ll need a crochet hook and some yarn. As you become a premier hooker you’ll build up an arsenal of hooks of all sizes, and you’ll also find it handy to have stitch markers and a yarn needle.

Different brands have slightly different benefits to their hooks. Bamboo hooks can be nice to work with but sometimes little splinters will grab your yarn. You can also get steel and plastic hooks, ultimately any cheap hooks can be a bit grabby and tough on your hands after hours of absent minded hooking. Soft rubber handle hooks are more gentle on your hands and they are a much better choice for people suffering from arthritis and finding it difficult to grasp a thin hook.

There are (unfortunately) three different ways to refer to the sizes of crochet hooks, these are outlined in the table below.

  1. The U.S. identify hooks by letters and numbers from B to S and 1 to 15.
  2. There are imperial measurements of the shank diameter (common in The U.K.).
  3. Australia commonly uses the metric measurement of the shank diameter.

  4. Steel crochet hooks are finer and generally used with lace weight yarns and crochet threads.

    Crochet Hook International Size Conversion Chart

Bra Made In Class

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This beautiful white underwire bra was made by a student in our Bra Making Course. 

In our course students learn to make a bra that has multiple cup pattern pieces (this means more support), wires, hooks and eyes, adjustable straps and full (wider) band. We provide details of wonderful suppliers for gorgeous bra fabrics and laces during booking and advise of the pattern that students need to purchase.

To accommodate different skill levels, you can take this course over 16 or 8 hours!

  • 16 hour course students make a toile bra first and learn how to undertake pattern adjustments before cutting into their fabulous fabric. The course starts two weeks before the 8 hour option –
  • 8 hour course students join after the first two workshops, they choose their size based on measurements and learn to make a beautiful bra.